Testing: RedThreaded’s 1860s Gored Corset Pattern

Redthreaded has been making quality historical corsets for quite some time, but their home-sewing patterns are a newer addition to their lines. It’s rare I use a commercial pattern, but it is time to re-do my foundations for the later 1850s/1860s, as well as for the 1840s, and it’s always fun to try something new! So this time, rather than custom-drape, I’m testing a newer pattern release from a great corsetiere, and sharing the details of my experience with you, the Sewing Academy members!

I chose the downloadable pattern in a size 22 (the link goes to the paper pattern–look for the downloadable link in the description); purchase was simple, delivery immediate, and it was easy to save the file to my drive. Printout was very simple: 22 pages, zero scaling, all black-and-white… took about 2 minutes, including shuffling through the toys in the front room to get to the printer and retrieve my printout.

It took me a moment to suss how the printed pattern tapes together. It was simple when I started from the last sheet. Rather than putting together one huge grid, there are five tape-together sets: the last two pages are the gusset, busk facing, and back lacing panels, two sheets taped together; then the hip gore, two sheets taped together; a single sheet for the mid-back piece; and four sheets each for the right and left front/side corset shapes. It only took a few minutes to tape each set up neatly, and cut out the pattern.

Right off, I like that grainlines are noted clearly (and do note that they are not visually up-and-down—there is some great use of graining that adds to the comfort and stability of the design!) and the seam allowances vary in width. There is no sense cutting a 5/8″ seam allowance on an edge that will be bound! RedThreaded gives a sensible 1/4″ allowance on bound edges. The seam allowances are clearly marked on the pattern itself, and the notes include mention of cutting them off entirely and marking your own preferred allowances on the cloth itself.

This pattern does include some modern technique options suited to modern theatrical or cosplay use, so I’ll be retro-fitting to mid-19th century techniques (no serger, etc).

It does include a waist stay, which is not in every mid-century corset, but is a nice technique on single-layer corsets, and I’ll be using that. I tend to be overly warm most of the time, and I’m excited to give a single-layer corset a go!

The instructions use photographs rather than line drawings. There are some processes I’ll swap (I’ll be binding last, for instance, instead of binding the lacing placket and main corset body separately).

First Alteration: I prefer to have a whipped-in busk, versus machine installed, so I’m using the process in The Dressmaker’s Guide instead, altering the facing pieces a tad at center front.  Because the fronts are largely on the bias, using a straight-grain facing for the busk installation is necessary.

Second Alteration: The pattern sizing is very close to my actual measurements, but I know I want significant bust lift, which will require shortening and possibly narrowing the bust gussets. I’m both fat and vain, so I’ll be using increased compression in the front torso.

Potential Third Alteration: this corset has relatively few vertical seams, to opportunities to create compression or alter it quickly are lower. This means careful fitting is a huge key to success for my figure.

Fourth Alteration: Looking back, and taking into account my Very Squishy Flesh, I should have ordered a 20, which advice is right there on the ordering page from RedThreaded! Note to Future Liz: take my own good advice and hearken to the designer!

Fitting Test 1:

First mockup material? Poster board. Yes, you heard right! Poster board and tape! This gives me a quick non-stretchy look at the shaping, and how I might need to change it up for myself. I traced, cut, and taped the fronts, back, and back lacing panel, to see how the overall shape will sit to my waist.

The first thing that became very obvious is that I’m taller in the waist and ribs than the pattern really serves as-is. That’s normal information for me, but important–without it, seating the corset properly at my waist, the whole upper edge would fall 1-2″ too short for my bust, and since I do like that to be supported, it makes a big difference.

I also noted that I want to drastically shorten the gusset depth, and I may not be using the side-bust gusset position at all. For those who have breast tissue distributed further around the side, the side-bust gusset may be vital. I anticipate either eliminating it entirely, or else making it more narrow.

Fitting Test 2 & 2.5:

This time, I traced the pattern onto test cloth, marking a higher top edge under the arms and into the bust. I don’t have much “back fat”, so I’ll blend the risen areas into the as-drafted back piece. I’m testing support with cut-down plastic zip ties basted into strips of cloth for boning channels; I’ll use steel in the final version.

This test went rather well; I got great uplift for the bust by shortening the gore placements, and with just one gore in place up front, got fairly nice positioning and volume as well. The waist position was precisely where I needed it to be. The zip ties were annoying, so I started swapping them out immediately.

I had initial qualms about the size and shaping of the hip panel, but it fit in precisely, and had plenty of room for my lower abdomen, hip, and non-existent upper-back-hip flesh. Anyone with actual bun meat may need to plan to slice and dice the back of the hip panel for more flare there.

I did notice a distinct change from two layer to one layer, in the bust area: I needed a bit more boning support than anticipated, to make up for the lesser-support of a single corset fabric layer. This is very easily fixed, of course, with some additional angled boning channels from the side bust toward the front of the body.

I may go back to add a small additional bust gore, quite slim, for a bit more room. And, I could stand to raise the side-front bust a tad more as well. With a good chemise to help control the flesh that’s at liberty, it’s not a present problem at all.

It took some time to draw and stitch on casings for each boning position, but the work was not difficult, and the shaping of the corset helped identify great angles for that boning, too.

Remember how I noted above that there would be very few alteration points once the main seams were together?

Yeah.

I was right.

I ended up needing to take about 4″ out of the mid-back of the corset, from waist to the top edge, between my shoulder blades, which I was able to pinpoint once all the boning was installed. Thankfully, I’m happy to Frankenstein a corset. Pinching out a long dart from nothing at the waist, to 1″ deep at the upper edge, right next to the lacing placket, is a good temporary fix for the issue. I stitched it wrong-sides-together, placing that dart on the outside of the corset and felling it down flat. In a final-final version, I’ll correct the entire angle and shape of the mid-back piece, and will be pleased as custard! For now, it’s functional and not lumpy under my thinnest dress.

True Confessions:

I entirely forgot to install the waist stay, and inserted the hip panel inside out, so there’s a raw seam on the outside of my test corset. The test boning is a mix of 1/4″ flat spring steels of varying and assorted lengths, American and Canadian, harvested from previous corset iterations. I added a binding, tossed the corset in my suitcase, and determined to find it charming.

Life Test:

This rough draft corset, completed in less than two days, had a 5-hour dress test at the Citizen’s Forum Conference in Maumee Ohio, 22 March 2019.

Donning was easily achieved; I did have some lacing adjustment help from a friend, but no one cried.

I found the shaping to give excellent and comfortable compression, with very acceptable room for my guts. I nibbled and sipped with great abandon. I knocked over small decorative elements, and retrieved them from the floor. I felt firmed and supported, and loved having my bust in a nice historical location that denies the effects of gravity and the space-time continuum.

Upon doffing, I did not need to heave the Busted Can O’ Biscuits Sigh… I was still comfortable! My corset showed exactly what I wanted it to show: some heat/perspiration molding in the bust and hip without loss of support, and ZERO significant stress or fitting wrinkles near the waist. Being able to cut and refine right to my actual sudden waist point, with a nearly 90* hip angle, made a HUGE difference in my comfort and overall shaping!

Summing Up:

I like RedThreaded’s 1860s Gored Corset Pattern. Quite a lot.

The drafting and scaling are precise and excellent. Markings are clear. Instructions (even with the modern arrangements) are quite good.

I would recommend it for a more experienced corset fitter, as it will take some pre-calculation to make sure sections are adjusted to suit the figure (particularly for anyone long in the ribs, like me, or taller than average.) The side-bust gores, in particular, will need careful attention for correct fit and depth to avoid bosoms that migrate to West Armpit.

Having a minimum of piecing, it goes together quickly; having a minimum of piecing, there are fewer fitting adjustment points, and they can be hard to get to without deconstruction. As with all patterns, at least one test version is mandatory.

Follow the designer’s recommendations: if you are one with soft flesh, DO order down a size. This pattern does *not* have ease added, but squishy flesh will squish, and you’ll end up with too much corset left over. My measurements were squarely in a 22, but with what I ended up removing in circumference, a 20 would have been a better start point, with my own alteration for greater length waist to upper edge.

This shape of corset is ideal for anyone with sudden hips! I can’t recommend the separate hip panel enough. Being able to cut the waist to precisely my waist length, and have the hip go at a nearly 90* angle away from that, is so very comfortable! Depending on where your hip/belly/butt flesh lives, you may need to alter the hip panel for more flare.

For those with little to no hip shelf, this pattern can still be a very excellent one; you can create cotton-covered wool roving pads that baste into the corset hip, which creates a stable and comfortable hip shelf. The padding rests on you and fills out the corset shape; your clothes are then supported by the filled-out corset exoskeleton.

Do not fear altering your bust gores. Lift their starting point. Narrow or widen the gores. Refine the shape to echo the volume placement of your breasts. Reduce the outer gore or eliminate it altogether if your breast tissue does not reach that far to the side.

For $20 invested in a good pattern, this is one of the most comfortable, easy-to-wear corsets I’ve had in the last 28 years!

And no, I have no pictures. Because I am really quite dreadful about that. I am determined to find that a charming quirk, rather than a blogging failure.